A growling Hellhound lies on the crossroads. The obvious path leads toward destruction; ecological and economic collapse, species die-backs… the end-of-the-world.
Carleton is looking at the salvation potential of raised consciousness. He says
some things have the potential to move us towards greater understanding; real
paradigm shifts, and he holds up his hand to count them off on his fingers. Art.
Education. Meditation. Psychedelics, and raw, harsh need. Maybe add war, or
religion, and natural disasters too. These are the things that move us to action—in part because through them we see ourselves in relation to and as
part of a larger interconnected whole. I am wondering can I throw the dog a
bone? Is there a way food can help quell the beast? Destruction still looms but if the barking dog is sated maybe we can focus on a better route, maybe stave off the final plunge.
Knee-jerk reaction has me cooking
local/sustainable/organic/seasonal/low-on-the-food-chain foods, though this
feel-good approach belies the complexities of our entrenched industrialized
food system, global warming, first and third world disparities, vicissitudes of
health. You can’t just serve up DIY, farm-to-table fare and think you’ll change
the world. We tried that back in the day and what grew from it is a
multi-billion dollar organics industry with its own dirty dozen and fleets of fossil-fuel
gobbling trucks. Sure its done some good, but has it tipped the scale? The voting with your dollar tact only goes so far.
What if I jumped on the devils back and served up the culprits
instead; monocultured commodities and over-fished prey? What if the meal talked
back to “the man,” used his product but differently, co-opted corn and soy for
something nobler than burgers-n-fries? *
What if? This menu would exemplify the impulse to work from the inside out,
which has its merits, though change this way is super slow.
*Corn is grown on approx. 80
million of 400 million crop growing acres of North American farmland. 80%+ goes
to animal feed, though now there’s increasing demand of corn for Ethanol. As for soy, the US is one of the top
worldwide producers; the bulk of it becomes soybean oil, much of which fries
potatoes.
Or why not appeal to the stomach to get the spirit up in arms?
A meal of taste-treats tagged with the caveat of near extinction… “Like this? Well too bad!--the honey bees are dying, the rain forest disappearing,
the fish are nearly gone” This menu would be a parochial knuckle slap,
effective, but cruel and decadent too.
As no one culinary approach seems better than the other I decided to plan the menu using all three.
As no one culinary approach seems better than the other I decided to plan the menu using all three.
Grilled Banana1 Leaf packets with Malaysian spiced Tilapia2
Kombu3 braised Kobucha4 squash with sake soy glaze
Turmeric scented Quinoa5 cakes with sesame and coconut
Guacamole6 with non-GMO corn chips
Honey7 cake with ice cream
1: Bananas are not “going
extinct” as some doomsayers predict, but they are vulnerable because of mono-cropping (despite 100's of worldwide varietals—we only market one.) In the 1960’s the main varietal, the Gros Michel, was wiped out by a strain of fungus. Today’s number
one varietal, the Cavensish, is also under
attack by a fungicide resistant soil-borne fungus. Mono-cropping is a selfish dangerous policy based on profit rather than sustainability. The horror about bananas is revealed in the
“Banana Republic” history of Chiquita and the United Fruit Company: colonization, labor and resource exploitation, etc.
2
Talapia is one of the most common farmed fish. Under-regulated farming causes pollution and
GMO contamination to “wild” fish populations. 75% of farmed Talapia is raised in China
which has been sited for lax controls of bacterial infection in its farmed fish
populations.
3 Kombu
(kelp.) Seems seaweed is good and healthful and no more endangered than are the
seas, although I've heard tale of dangerous mercury levels in some harvests. Post Fukushima there was a lot of fear around Japanese imports.
4 Kabocha—this seasonal, organic winter squash was grown on a nearby farm and the shiso leaf
was grown on my windowsill, but is it actually fuel efficient to have a small
grower truck the squash to my farmer’s market?
5 Quinoa
is an ancient Peruvian grain—super drought resistant and high in protein, calcium
and dietary fiber. Its hypoallergenic and gluten free. Some say that because its become so
popular in the US and UK and the prices are so inflated, the indigenous people of the South American
highlands who depended on quinoa as a staple can no longer afford to eat it. Others think the popularity is a boon to farmers in that mostly barren part of
the world. Labor issues are as sticky ecological woes.
6 Avocado and lime.
For some reason both of these crops have suffered in the past few years. Is it
global warming, or maybe Mexican drug cartels disrupting distribution?
7 Honey.
We all know we’re fucked. The bees are endangered from colony collapse caused by the over use of pesticides. Without bees to pollinate, many crops and plant are endangered. Another ingredient in the honey cake I served was
coffee, a crop that has lead to rain forest deforestation and corrupt labor
practices.
After the meal a young woman came into the kitchen to thank
me. "So delicious and thoughtful,” she said, “its so IMPORTANT to be AWARE of what you eat. People need to KNOW, We all must ACT.”
Her earnestness itched like bad bed bug bites. I’d so love
food to be an activists’ tool but my inner cynic worries its crumbs to the
wind. Or worse, an inadvertent counter-revolutionary defusing of the drive to create positive
change: eat “right” and delude yourself into believing you’re off the hook for sustained political action.
“Still” I wistfully thought, nestling grapes in a bowl, “ a thoughtful, carefully shopped meal makes its tiny mark.” |
It's a poetryscience tradition
to pass red and green grapes at the point in the evening the speaker finishes
presenting and the floor opens to discussion. This time, along with the ubiquitous red and green Thompson’s of 1960-70's UFW's Grape Boycott fame, I served tart black Ribier’s, a translucent
green varietal of Concord, and tiny, unbelievably sweet Niagara’s grown by happy farmers. At my presentation before supper I’d catalogued every ingredient’s
sorry story, but with these I kept quiet, hoping the glory of their taste would make a better
case than mine.